March 20, 2019

Let's go to "Furoshiki world" !!

Do you know "Furoshiki"? It's square-shaped fabric to wrap objects.

Furoshiki is a traditional Japanese wrapping cloth used to carry all sort of objects such as clothes, gifts and so on.

You can find a Furoshiki shop in Ningyoucho, downtown area, near Nihonbashi Tokyo. In Ningyoucho, there are many unique shops, such as shops for "Taiyaki" and "Ningyoyaki"(Japanese sweets), "Bettara"(sweet pickles), "Korokke"(Japanese style potato croquetto), and so on. Among them, there is the Furoshiki shop called "Karakusaya". Karakusaya is a retail store showcasing a range of Furoshiki.



In days past, Furoshiki was first used to wrap your own clothes to differentiate from others at a public bath, as the word "Furo" means a public bath, and "Shiki" means a spread.

Now Furoshiki is gaining popularity, because that is eco-friendly unlike disposal paper bags and plastic bags. You don't need to discard them and it is reusable.

Modern Furoshiki have a variety of designs and sizes. Let's have fun to visit!!




Access: Ningyocho station Exit A5, Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line,Toei Asakusa Line
Address: 3-4-6 Nihonnbashi Ningyoucho Chuo-ku Tokyo
Open : 11:00-18:00, closed on Sunday and Holiday
Tel: 03-3661-3938
HP http://www.karakusaya.co.jp

by Izumi



Copyright © Koto English-speaking Volunteer Guide Association - All Rights Reserved.

February 28, 2019

Plum blossoms' scent fills shrine honoring "god of learning"

Passing under the vermilion gate in eastern Tokyo, there is a sacred place with the scent of hundreds of plum blossoms. It is time now to visit the Kameido Tenjin, a shrine dedicated to the memory of Sugawara Michizane (845-903), revered as the "god of learning."


Tenjin, meaning "heavenly god," has come to refer to the spirit of Michizane, a late high-ranking Imperial Court noble who had never harbored any hatred to others and continued studies despite being forced into exile in the early tenth century.

Kameido Tenjin in Tokyo's Koto City is one of the 12,000 shrines throughout the country, commonly called "Tenjin-sama" named for Michizane, but it is the sole Tenjin shrine built with an identical design modeled after the head shrine in Dazaifu on Japan's southern main island of Kyushu.

A pair of racks full of votive wooden tablets with people's wishes or thanks written on them look heavy in front of the Kameido Tenjin's main hall.

The Main Hall of Kameido Tenjin

Michizane, a son of an educator, began showing his talent still in his younger age, composing a slew of Waka, or traditional Japanese poems comprised of Hiragana and Kanji characters, and Chinese version with Kanji characters only.

Historical records show that while working for the Imperial Court in Kyoto, he was at one time sent to Shikoku area, where he put a financially troubled state back on track, winning the local people's applause. He excelled as a scholar and an archer.

But the storm of the political conspiracies and jealousy by the rival Fujiwara family hit and led to his exile to Dazaifu.
Before leaving his residence in Kyoto, Michizane created a famous Waka:

    When the east wind blows

    Send me its fragrance

    Oh plum blossoms

    Even if the master is away

    Do not forget the coming of spring

A statue inscribed with this poem in Japanese stands along with other numerous stone statues in the shrine compound. Michizane, however, died at the age of fifty-eight in 903, without seeing his beloved plum trees at his Kyoto residence again.

There are some 300 plum trees planted in the precincts of the Kameido Tenjin, which was built in 1662 under the strong support of the fifth Tokugawa shogunate, Ietsuna.



During the Edo Period (1603-1868), the portraits of Michizane were hung on the wall at almost all Terakoyas, private schools for children from common people. The knowledgeable elders and retied samurai were among teachers, teaching them how to read, write and calculate. The number of Terakoyas was said to be about 15,000 nationwide by the end of the Edo era.

The plum blossom festival at Kameido Tenjin is held from Feb. 9 through March 10. The shrine is also popular for wisteria from late April to early May.


Kameido Tenjin: 3-6-1, Kameido, Koto City, Tokyo 136-0071

Access: 15-minute walk from either Kinshicho subway station, or Kameido or Kinshicho stations on the Sobu Line. Or take a bus from Kameido-eki mae and get off at Kamedio Tenjin-mae.

By Kozo



Copyright © Koto English-speaking Volunteer Guide Association - All Rights Reserved.

February 8, 2019

"Setsubun", a bean throwing ceremony


On February 3, we cerebrate "setsubun" in Japan. It means the changes of the seasons. Although there are four of them in Japan, the word "setsubun" is especially used for the day before the first day of spring. According to the lunar calendar which was used in Japan until late 19th century, "setsubun" was the last day of a year and a new year started next day.

On the evening of "setsubun", we used to open all doors of our house and scatter parched beans inside and outside of our house, shouting "Oni wa soto, Fuku wa uchi", meaning "Out with the devil! In with the good fortune!" to drive out evil spirits of the old year and welcome good fortune of the new year. We threw parched beans, wishing that the evil spirits would never come back in the new year.
After the ceremony was over we picked up the scattered beans in the rooms. Each of us ate the same number of beans as our age.
To my regret, I heard many families don't hold bean-throwing ceremony nowadays.
But most of the temples and shrines in Japan do it.

On that day I visited three shrines to see the bean-throwing ceremonies in my city, Koto-Ward, Tokyo.

First one is Fukagawa Shinmei-gu Shrine. After the ceremonial ritual, the chief priest threw beans at "Aka Oni", a red ogre and "Ao Oni", a blue ogre, yelling "Fuku wa uchi, Oni wa soto". Then notables of the town, parishioners and politicians went up to a stage and began throwing, not beans, but candies, small bags of candies or mandarin oranges to a crowd of people who were frantically trying to catch them.



Second one is Tomioka Hachiman-gu Shrine which had two long stages. As this is a big shrine, many guests were invited to throw beans from the stages. So guests were divided into 5 groups.
First group was sumo wrestlers from Otake Beya which is located in the neighborhood of the shrine. Audience sent big applause and were excited to get beans thrown by the sumo wrestlers. Then second and third group came onto the stages. One group consisted of about forty guests. When guests began to throw soybeans, they were like hail from the sky. People were more excited than before to get the grains of soybeans. It was hard to get the grains by one's hands, so many people had large paper bags with them and caught the beans with the bag's mouths wide open. After the fourth and fifth group repeated throwing, the ceremony was over.

I was anxious to know what would become of a lot of beans thrown but uncaught and fell on the ground. I saw large vinyl sheets were already spread under our feet. I heard later that the shrine would collect the beans left on the sheets and send them to a farm as feed for livestock.






Third one is Kameido Tenjin Shrine where the bean-throwing ceremony began at 6 PM.
Before bean throwing began, "Aka Oni" and "Ao Oni" entered from the darkness, and acted as if "causing harm" to the audience. Both "Oni"s shout something at the chief priest of the shrine, then the priest seemed to preach "Oni"s to repent their wrongdoings. They gave in and exited.
Bean throwing began as usual. At this shrine the soybeans were thrown in a small package. Some people caught the bean package direct from the thrower. Unfortunately I could catch none of them.



After "setsubun" it will get warmer day by day and "ume", a Japanese apricot, will bloom. And long-waited cherry blossom season will come. I can hardly wait for the beautiful spring!

by Hiroshi



The bean throwing ceremony of "setsubun" is one of the most amusing and interesting ritual events in Japan. Next year, if you want to see these event, please contact KEV! We will happily guide you.




Copyright © Koto English-speaking Volunteer Guide Association - All Rights Reserved.

Enjoy Kabukiza Theater from outside

Kabuki is a traditional form of Japanese drama. Its unique conventions such as striking makeup, exaggerated gestures, gorgeous costumes and fantastic stories have been developed to fascinate the audience since the early 17th century. Kabuki is sophisticated and at the same time still lively entertainment today. Kabukiza Theater in Higashi-Ginza is the only theater in Japan, where Kabuki performances are held almost everyday (the same program for 25 days a month).

Complete View of Kabukiza Theater
When passing in front of the façade, we feel like the theater itself radiates a festive atmosphere. Actually, the theater has a lot of devices to attract people. Let's take a look at the details of the building and devices.

Today's theater building is the fifth one rebuilt in 2013, succeeding to the style of the third one (designed by Shinichiro Okada, rebuilt in 1924, and burnt down by the air raid in 1945) and the fourth one (similar to the third one).

Azuchi-Momoyama-style Gable and its Crest
The most distinctive part of the facade is the huge undulating gable, which evokes the magnificent style of Japanese castle in the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1568-1603). The big ridge-end tile expressing water is placed on the gable, praying for protection from fire. The entrance of the theater is under the gorgeous gable, which draws people's attention to the inside.
The pattern with a phoenix in a circle is the theater's crest, which came from the ancient pattern used on a treasure of Horyu-ji Temple. We can find the crest here and there such as on tiles, paper lanterns, and curtains. Did you notice the phoenix on the gold metalwork has a bell on the neck? It is said that a bell ("Suzu" in Japanese) is referred to the Japanese word "Suzu-nari" meaning "overflowing with spectators."

Signboard with Pictures
The colorful pictures in a showcase depict scenes from the currently running play. They are painted by the 9th painter of the Torii school, which dates back to the end of the 17th century, and the painting style has been handed down from generation to generation for 300 years.

Left Banner and Right Banner
The banner on the right shows the name of the performance such as the February performance, and the one on the left shows the name of the theater, "Kabukiza." The letters are written with the Kantei style of calligraphy, characterized by thick strokes and a round shape. Thick strokes make a letter with a little space, praying for a full house (no empty space in the theater), and the round shape means people are coming inside of the theater.
Sake Barrels
The piled Sake barrels are given from a patron, which way of display has been a custom from the Edo period, giving a prosperous atmosphere. The Kanji letters in the center means "a full house."

Inari Shrine
There is a small Inari shrine on the right, where actors and people involved pray the safety and success on the first and the last day of the performance.

Like these, full of auspicious things in Kabukiza Theater create a flamboyant atmosphere and attract people. Now you might be in the mood for watching Kabuki. Then, how about trying "single act ticket", which is a ticket valid only for the day of issue and for one act?

Explanation of Single Act Ticket

Entrance for Single Act

If you want to enjoy the feeling of a Kabuki actor, it would be nice to drop in the bustling "Kobiki-cho square" in the basement; A small section imitating a dressing room of a Kabuki actor has been newly appeared from January.

Shops in the Square

Dressing Room

by Nobuko



Copyright © Koto English-speaking Volunteer Guide Association - All Rights Reserved.

January 9, 2019

New Year's Fish Auction at the New Toyosu Market

Tokyo's new fish market kicked off with a record price for a tuna in the year's first auction by a centuries-old way of hand signals.


The auction, held at the Toyosu market in the capital's Koto City, came less than three months after the Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market moved there from Tsukiji, ending its 83-year long history.

Under a computerized system, hygiene management of seafood is strictly maintained along with air and temperature conditions in the new market buildings. Authorized personnel are allowed for business only.

The auctions of tuna used to attract a great number of visitors, especially from abroad, in the former Tsukiji market as they were allowed to be near the fish wholesale area.

In Toyosu, however, visitors are off-limit there for the purpose of maintaining hygiene. Instead, they can watch them through glass windows and take pictures. Admission is free.

To choose the best fish, intermediary wholesalers were closely examining rows of tuna fish laid out on the green floor beforehand. The green floor is intended to draw a sharp contrast of colors with the fish to highlight the quality of them.



Some were seen using a flashlight and a hooked device, which is used to pick a tiny portion of tail meat from fish – a way of getting the feel by fingers.


Once the hand-bell starts ringing, the auctioneer then quickly set off bidding and buyers bid prices of tuna by hand signals. Finally, the 278-kilogram tuna fetched 333 million yen (US$3.0 million), breaking the previous record of 155 million yen (US$1.4 million) set up in the 2013 auction in Tokyo.

Historical records show that Teyari (hand signals) have been used in auctions since around 1600s when the Tokugawa shogunate allowed a group of fishermen exclusively to catch fish in the Edo Bay (present Tokyo Bay) and sell some of them downtown Nihonbashi.



The Nihonbashi Fish Market was completely destroyed by the 1923 earthquake. A few years later, the market was relocated to Tukiji to have a lot of riding on shipping and land transportation such as train.

The fish has long been the staple food with rice for the Japanese. They love to eat tuna as sashimi (raw fish) or a main ingredient in sushi that is called NETA in the jargon of the sushi world.

The winning bidder of the tuna, which was caught off Japan's northern coast a day before the auction and transported by truck, is a major sushi-restaurant operator in Tokyo.

The Toyosu market opened on Oct. 11, following a two-year respite, during which time authorities added measures to thoroughly check the underground water. The facilities stand on a former gas-producing plant site on reclaimed land.

The fruit and vegetables wholesale markets are in a separate building on the same waterfront site.

About 600 wholesalers and dealers have their respective offices in the markets, and 39 restaurants and 70 shops also operate there.

On the rooftop garden of another six-story market structure, you can view Mt. Fuji, Japan's highest mountain. It is visible, especially in the wintertime. The turf garden also commands a fine view of Tokyo skyline. Don't miss it when making a visit.



In the years ahead, a large commercial complex, including a hotel and posh restaurants, will be built on a current vacant lot.

Starting Jan. 15, the tuna auction will be more closely observed from the observation platform adjacent to the auctionfloor.  A total of 120 people will be selected by lottery per auction day. An advanced reservation is needed in the previous month. Please check the following website:

http://pia.jp/piajp/v/toyosushijou19/

Station: Shijoumae (Yurikagome Line). You can access each of the three buildings directly from the station.

Open: 5 a.m.-5 p.m. everyday except Sundays, public holidays and most Wednesdays and other special days when the market is closed.

By Kozo


++ KEV is now planning and preparing a new walking tour to visit this fish market. We will introduce it in the near future. Stay tuned to our website.




Copyright © Koto English-speaking Volunteer Guide Association - All Rights Reserved.







November 10, 2018

Western-style Cakes, Coated with Japanese Culture

Why all the Japanese people don't get fat with these beautiful cakes that taste too good?  That was a question a friend of mine from Australia asked me when she visited Japan for the first time.

Well, not only tasting good, but also there is a unique culture regarding western-style cakes in Japan that is not seen in western countries.

Here are some of the most popular cakes in Japan:

Christmas cake, or shortcake

Short cakes from Éclat des jours pâtisserie Official,
Toyo-cho, Tokyo
You might have noticed that advertisements of 'Christmas cakes' have started to appear this month. In Japan, Christmas cakes mostly refer to shortcakes, meaning sponge cakes covered with whipped cream and topped with fresh strawberries.

When I spent the holiday season in a western country for the first time, I was shocked to learn that they do not have the custom to eat Christmas cakes, namely shortcakes.

In Japan, Christmas cake is a must for celebrating Christmas. They are mostly consumed on the Christmas Eve. (By the way, young Japanese people tend to think that the Christmas Eve is a romantic day and should be spend with their boyfriend or girlfriend, not with their family)

Therefore, on the Christmas day, most stores start selling the unsold Christmas cakes with reduced price.

Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc from Isozaki,
Monzen-nakacho & Hamacho,
Tokyo
Mont Blanc is a cake of sweetened chestnuts. In Japanese cuisines, it's important to use seasonal ingredients in various dishes. Cakes are no exception, even if it originated in France.

That's why Mont Blancs are especially popular in autumn, the season of chestnuts. During this season, pastry chefs are keen to create their original Mont Blancs using domestically produced chestnuts.

Green tea cakes

Green tea cake from SAKURA,
Toyosu, Tokyo
If you still want some Japanese touch, try green tea, or maccha cakes.

Green tea is popular ingredient of Japanese traditional and non-traditional desserts, not to mention the maccha ice cream, favorite dessert of the tennis superstar, Naomi Osaka.


Interested in Japanese daily life and daily food which is not covered in you guidebook? Join our free walking tour!

(by Seiko)

October 11, 2018

Ningyo Market at Ningyo-cho

From October fourth to sixth, there had been a Ningyo(doll) Market.
There were lots of stalls selling dolls and small items along the main street at Ningyo-cho. Doll lovers enjoyed shopping and browsing.


In Edo era, there were two kabuki theaters 'Nakamuraza' and 'Ichimuraza' in the area. In addition to them, some puppet plays were staged. So, there lived a lot of puppeteers and toy manufacturers there. Souvenir shops selling dolls were also thriving. Ningyo-cho was a lively place in Edo era.


There are two automaton clock towers on the main street. One tower features lakugo, a traditional Japanese comic storytelling. The other tower shows the Hikeshi, or the firefighters, in Edo era. On the hour from 11 am to 7 pm, small firefighter dolls show their performances for two minutes in the windows of the tower. A doll performs up on the ladder, the other doll brandishes a matoi, or fireman's standard. Those dolls tell us that the firefighters climbed up on the roof and swung around a matoi at the scene of the fire in Edo era.

A stall selling small handmade things made of silk crape.

Next year will be 'the year of the Boar' in the Chinese zodiac.

Shopping the dolls and thinking about Ningyo-cho in Edo era, Ningyo Market led you to an interesting history of the town.

By Jacky.