Japanese Soy Sauce and its history in the Edo period

Having looked over the Edo history, there are many fermentation products invented during the Edo period and one of the most indispensable products for Japanese is Shoyu - soy sauce. While Japanese use soy sauce as a daily essential seasoning for many dishes, how many kinds of soy sauce do you think we have in the market? How many brands do you think we have in Japan? 

According to the JAS (Japan Agricultural Standard), there are five kinds of soy sauce in the market; Koikuchi (regular soy sauce), Usukuchi (light color soy sauce), Tamari soy sauce, Saishikomi (double-fermented soy sauce) and Shiro (clear soy sauce). This definition was determined based on our conventional life-style and the government successfully streamlined the categories into these five. The majority is Koikuchi (regular soy sauce) that represents 84% of the market share. The next is Usukuchi (light color soy sauce) that presents 13% of the market. The other 3 kinds of soy sauce compete against each other in the rest 3% of the market. 

Here are the definitions.

(Image Source: Soy Saurce Information Center Website)

　

Koikuchi (Regular):

Koikuchi shoyu is made from cultured mold (Koji) with approximately equal portion of soybeans and wheat and brine after going through several months’ fermentation process.

Usukuchi (Light Color): 

Usukuchi shoyu is made from cultured mold (Koji) containing more wheat and less soybeans than Koikuchi shoyu. To make the color lighter than Koikuchi, about 10% more salt is used; on the contrary, saccharified rice-koji (Amasake) is sometimes added to moderate saltiness. Fermentation period is also shorter than Koikuchi. 

Tamari: 

Tamari shoyu is made mostly from soybeans with only a small amount of wheat with a ratio of 10:1-2 or no wheat (wheat-free version). Tamari is regarded as the original formula of soy sauce. Tamari mainly appears in Chukyo (Nagoya) region.

Saishikomi (Double-fermented): 

Saishikomi shoyu is made by cultured mold (Koji) in raw soy sauce instead of usual brine. Because of this process, it tends to have richer and stronger Umami and sweetness than Koikuchi. Saishikomi appears in Yamguchi (Chugoku) region.

Shiro (Clear): 

Shiro shoyu is very light in color and is made mainly from wheat with very little soybeans in a ratio of 10:1-2. Fermentation period is much shorter and this soy sauce appears in Chukyo (Nagoya) region.

Interestingly, the current Koikuchi soy sauce was being developed between 17th and 18th century after Tokugawa Ieyasu founded the Edo bakufu. Since the Edo township started expanding with growing population, many products had been brought from Kamigata (Osaka) to fulfill the consumption. Soy sauce was one of them called “Kudari-mono (shipping down to east from west) Shoyu” and the major production locations of soy sauce at that time were Wakayama and Hyogo. Japanese soy sauce is said that the original form was accidentally founded during Miso production in Wakayama. This original form of soy sauce was close to Tamari and it is believed that Wakayama is the birth place of Japanese soy sauce. 

At the beginning of soy sauce introduction to Edo, about 80% of soy sauce were from Kamigata and about 20% was supplied from local producers near Edo such as Chiba and Ibaragi, and so forth. After brought to Edo, soy sauce was continuously being improved by adding wheat for better flavors and aroma by Kanto producers. As the Edo people not only ate fresh fish from the Edo Bay but also needed stronger flavored seasoning, this modification was well accepted to become the current Koikuchi style. This evolved soy sauce became more popular and, by the end of Tokugawa shogunate, soy sauce supply to the Edo area was 80% locally and 20% from Kamigata.

There are also some records that show exports of soy sauce during the Edo period. However, the official export of soy sauce was observed in 1868 when the first Japanese immigration delegation started to Hawaii. Since then, Japanese soy sauce has been exported to many foreign countries wherever there are Japanese people.

(Conpura ceramic bottle traded at the Mercari) Source: www.mercari.com

(Reproduction of Conpura bottle)

Currently we still have approximately 1200 brands in Japan and the top 5 major brands represent 50% of market share. Now you can check how many kinds and brands you can see at your local supermarkets and you may be able to find more unique kinds of soy sauce in the market. Let’s try to find your favorite soy sauce!

The spirit of hospitality?

While you are enjoying a walk in Koto City, you may find a retro-cool Japanese style pub. (Picture 1) Okay, let’s pop into the pub and have a glass of sake and some yakitori! But, when you pass through the short curtain (Picture 2), you’ll soon find that the pub is not actually a pub, but it is a … public restroom! (Picture 3)

Picture 1

Picture 2

Picture 3

The Tokyo local government has been promoting the policy of making a comfortable city before inviting the Olympic and Paralympic games. In July 2006, the Tokyo local government established a guideline for public restrooms improvement from the citizen’s point of view. Based on the guideline, one public restroom should be built within the radius of 400-500 meters from another one, which means that you can reach a public restroom in less than ten-minute walk.

 Koto City is one of the cities in Tokyo that are actively working on public restrooms. When it comes to the quantity, there are 193 public restrooms in Koto City as of April 2019. The density of public restrooms in Koto City is 4.805 per square km, compared with 1.479 in Osaka. Regarding the quality, they make careful consideration that a public restroom fits in a local sight, as residents usually hesitate for a public restroom to be built in their vicinity. As a result, that pub-looking restroom has been built!

Let’s see other examples of public restrooms with unique appearance in Koto City. 

 It looks like a traditional Japanese warehouse in a preserved area, but it is a public restroom in a park, which was once on a property of “Tomioka Hachiman-gu”, a local worshipped shrine. (Picture 4) This public restroom was built with the intention to reproduce a warehouse of the shrine. 

Picture 4

This public restroom has a strange roof, like a hat or something. (Picture 5) Can you guess what this structure represents? Well, this public restroom is located at the foot of “Eitai Bashi”, a beautiful bridge over the River Sumida, linking Koto City and Chuo City. (Picture 6) The “hat” of this public restroom represents the bridge! 

Picture 5

Picture 6

When you suddenly need to search for a restroom during a walk in Koto City, don’t worry. Just consult a city map. (Pictures 7 and 8) The legend with a standing lady and a standing man shows a public restroom. The legend also appears on a wall of a public restroom (see a left side of Picture 5).

Picture 7

Picture 8

Not only a lot of sightseeing spots but also public restrooms in Koto City are waiting for you!

      By Naoki

Amazing wonderland Toyosu

Toyosu is an artificial island facing Tokyo Bay. It is the center of the coastal area located to the south of the heart of Tokyo. It is seven minutes from Ginza, the most famous shopping area in Japan, by Tokyo Metro Yurakucho Line. It has become a remarkably developing area in Tokyo with such a good location.

But, how much do you know about this area?

Maybe, many people know about Toyosu Market. The famous Tsukiji Fish Market was relocated to Toyosu in October 2018 and it reopened as Toyosu Market. We offer free English-guided walking tour of Toyosu Market as course D: Explore World’s Largest Wholesale Fish Market. You will surely be excited to see the dynamic tuna auction. Website: https://kev.jp/coursesTop.html

　　

Tuna auction
(Photo courtesy: Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market)

Toyosu Market panoramic view
(Photo courtesy: Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market)

However, there are a lot of attractive spots to see besides that. Let’s learn and explore Toyosu. This area was in the sea until nearly 100 years ago. With he development of Japan, it was born as a man-made island in 1937. It was named “Toyosu” with the wish to “become a prosperous land.” It started as a shipyard town with big shipbuilding company IHI. After the end of the war, it was functioning as an industrial area.  Besides IHI, big factories such as TEPCO’s new Tokyo Thermal Power Station and Tokyo Gas Toyosu Factory operated. This area supported Japan’s postwar high economic growth.

In the 1980’s, these factories were relocated to rural areas due to changes in the industrial structure and this area was redeveloped as a complex town.  It has become a complex area with business, housing and entertainment in just over 20 years. Those functions gathered within just a few kilometers square.

Toyosu Shipyard in the 1960s
(Photo courtesy: Tokyo Port Promotion Association)

Recent scenery of former Toyosu Shipyard

As a business area, head offices of large companies such as IHI, Nihon Unisys, Maruha Nichiro, NTT Data gathered and many modern office buildings were built here. A large skyscraper opened this spring and is directly connected to Metro Toyosu Station.

Office building along the Harumi street

Large skyscraper connecting to the Metro

As a housing area, many high-rise condominiums and apartments were built within 20 years and they are located near office buildings and entertainment facilities. One large high-rise condominium is still under construction near Toyosu station.

Condominiums along the canal

Condominiums next to Lalaport Toyosu

As a result of becoming an area for both working and living, Toyosu Station has the seventh largest number of passengers in the Tokyo Metro area after Shinjuku Station in 2019, and is larger than Shibuya Station.

Can you believe it?

As entertainment area, many attractive entertainment facilities are opening one after another. Lalaport Toyosu, one of the largest shopping malls in central Tokyo, opened in 2006 and has become one of the most popular shopping malls. It was directly connected to Metro Toyosu station this spring and is always crowded with visitors. It faces Tokyo Bay and the sunset and night view are beautiful.

Lalaport Toyosu   

Sunset and night view from Lalaport Toyosu

Some unique amusement facilities have been established in the new area called Shin-Toyosu. It is about 10 minutes from Toyosu Station. TeamLab Planets is a museum where you walk through water. It consists of 4 vast exhibition spaces with 7 distinct artworks. The artworks are surprising.  

There are also two unique theaters, Toyosu PIT and IHI STAGE AROUND TOKYO. They have unique performances. There are also popular barbecue venues and sports facilities there. Shin-Toyosu is a new attractive spot in Toyosu area. Of course, don’t forget that you can have a wonderful experience at Toyosu Market.

TeamLab Planets 

Shin-Toyosu scenery

Toyosu is also full of nature. There are two large parks. One is Toyosu park and the other is Toyosu Gururi Park.  Toyosu Park is located next to Lalaport Toyosu and has an open space facing Tokyo Bay and the lawn plaza is always crowded with parents and children. It is a scenic park where drama locations and commercials are often shot.

Toyosu Gururi Park has a total length of 4.5 km around Toyosu Pier. You can enjoy walking and running there. At the tip, you can see the Tokyo Tower, the Rainbow Bridge and the skyscrapers in the bay area which is one of the best views in Tokyo. The park has also a large barbecue venue and nice open terrace restaurants, making it a popular spot.  Our blog in October introduced Toyosu Gururi Park in detail, so please take a look.

Toyosu Park

Toyosu Gururi Park

The landscape of this area continues to change rapidly and dynamically. Toyosu is now one of the leading areas in Tokyo with highly convenient facilities for daily living in a beautiful landscape. It has grown into a popular area and has become a comfortable area to live and work. It is expected that Toyosu will become even more attractive in the future. But there is also a nostalgic park just off the main street. You may feel nostalgia there. By the way, do you know that the first 7-Eleven store in Japan, which has more than 20,000 stores, was opened in Toyosu in 1974?

By Isao

The first 7-Eleven store

Nostalgic park just off the main street

　　 

        　　

Let’s visit a water front park in Koto City.

There are about 300 parks in Koto City. This section introduces one of the newest parks in Toyosu area, “Toyosu Gururi Park”. 

Gururi Park is a 5-kilometer-long park designed to allow visitors to walk around the outside of the Toyosu Pier where Toyosu Market is located, just as the name of Gururi literally means surroundings. It is an open park facing Tokyo Bay. Visitors can not also enjoy walking and jogging but get nice views of Tokyo Tower and a group of high-rise apartment buildings on the opposite side of the bay, as well as Tokyo Sky Tree in the distance, and also Tokyo Rainbow Bridge at the tip of the park. It’s least exaggeration to say that this is the park with the best view in Koto City. This time, let’s trace this park in a clockwise direction starting near Toyosu Nishi Elementary School and ending at Toyosu Park. In addition, it would be a good idea to bring some drinks or snacks before the start beforehand as there aren’t any convenience stores along the park route. The nearest station to the start point(K01) is Shin Toyosu Station(Yurikamome Line). 

There are distance indication signs standing on the parkway that show distances every 400m, so please take a look at them. You walk about 800 meters (K03) and you will see the "Ariake Arena" on the opposite shore. 

This is the indoor stadium where volleyball and wheelchair basketball competitions will be held at the Tokyo Olympics. It is characterized by its concave-like curved roof. If the roof were to be dome-shaped like a typical arena, the sun's rays would be reflected in the surrounding apartments all day long, so the center of the roof is concave, making it "curved". You walk down a little further(K04), you will see “Ariake Gymnastics Centre”, where gymnastics, rhythmic gymnastics, trampoline and boccia competitions are held at the Tokyo Olympics. 

The roof, exterior and spectator's seats are made of wood, in keeping with the concept of a "wooden vessel floating in the Tokyo bay area", which is appropriate for its former location as a lumberyard. Further along, around the tip of the Toyosu Pier, the view changes dramatically as the Tokyo Rainbow Bridge comes into view. 

Many people can be seen fishing and enjoying a BBQ at the facility on the right (K07). 

You can enjoy BBQ without any prepared forehand. Fishing and BBQ with a view of the Tokyo Rainbow Bridge, what a luxury! If you go around the tip perfectly(K08), you will see many buildings. You can catch a glimpse of Tokyo Tower through the gap of them, and if you look further to the right, you can catch a glimpse of Tokyo Sky Tree at the same time.

If you want a more splendid view, you can climb “Rooftop Garden” on the roof of Toyosu Market on your right hand. You can use the elevators directly connected to “Rooftop Garden” from the park (the long, white building is the elevator building). 

On a clear day, you can even see Mt. Fuji, the highest mountain in Japan, from there. You walk down a little further(K11) and at the time when you see a colorful building in the front distance, you almost reach the goal. 

Near the goal, you will see a shopping center complex built on the site of a former shipbuilding factory, which is crowded with many people. You will reach the goal at the distance sign K13.

It seems to be a very short and fun 5km. Along the way, you can take a break and enjoy a meal outdoors, so you will be able to spend a very relaxing time there. After the finish line, you can enjoy shopping in the shopping complex, or you can use the bike sharing service (bike rental) to go further afield. You can also board a boat from the former dock near the finish line and travel to Odaiba, Hamamatsucho and Asakusa. The night view is also highly recommended. Just enjoy the view of the city center and the sense of freedom that makes you believe you are in the heart of the city. 

ATSUGI, Takeshi

New Japanese Sake Season

 

We are now planning two more new courses; one is Japanese sake and the other is tea ceremony. Here, I would like to give you a little information of Japanese sake.

 October 1^st is like New Year’s Day for Japanese sake.

Why? Please remember the growing cycle of rice that is one of the ingredients of Japanese sake. As sake rice is harvested in autumn, September to October, most of sake breweries usually start to produce in October. The sake brewing does not always start on October 1^st, however, the day is special for the breweries to celebrate the start of sake production season. They pray at a shrine for the safety and success of the sake brewing of the year, and then prepare, clean and check the tools and devices they use. This is one of the reasons for which the day was designated as “Nihonshu no Hi” or the day of Japanese Sake by the Japanese Sake and Shochu Makers Association in 1978.

Many Japanese-sake-day-related events and celebrations are held all over the country, or the world on that day. Especially “Kampai (or cheers) with Japanese sake” has been encouraged.

 New sake or fresh sake that is to be brewed this year will be on sale from around late November or December. Why don’t you have a taste one if you have a chance? Of course, it would be happy if you join our tour to find something and talk about sake!